Man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCF) are a renewable alternative to fossil-based synthetic fibers. They potentially reduce environmental impacts, in comparison to other fibres commercially available such as cotton. Upscaling is the problem. Economic, environmental and social properties depend on its successful implementation. Among critical barriers are the price of dissolving pulp, solvent recovery, capital expenditure, and energy consumption. The most significant impacts are greenhouse gas emissions, water use, abiotic resource use, eutrophication, acidification and changes in land use. Such factors will be decisive as MMCF is being upscaled.
The textile industry is one of the largest sectors of the global economy. For many emerging nations it is a significant source of economic growth. It represents more than 2% of Gross Domestic Product (GDP) worldwide. Over the past twenty years, the average annual use of textiles per capita has surged from 7 kg to 13 kg. Moreover, this consumption is predicted to surge by as much as 63% by 2035.
The competitors
Presently, natural fibre cotton is the most used fibre, only surpassed by nylon. But there are concerns with cotton; these include use of toxic insecticides and pest control products, in addition to significant adverse effects from high water and land use, and eutrophication. Whereas the production of synthetic fibres includes high energy consumption and a considerable contribution to climate change. On top of that, the way textiles are manufactured and utilized often is unethical and detrimental to the environment. Then, there is the textile industry, also responsible for water and air pollution. Discrimination based on gender is a major issue. Moreover, megatrends in sustainability are pressuring the textile industry and companies to minimize their adverse impacts wherever possible. As illustrated by the discovery of microplastics in the oceans, due to the production of synthetic garments.
Particularly the European Commission (EC) stresses the need for circular economy practices and recyclability. This will require active innovation work, in order to introduce new and sustainable alternatives to the textiles sector. A big challenge! Man-made cellulose fibres (MMCF) come into play. These typically have the technical and physical propericies of cotton, and the smooth and glossy appearance of silk. They are made by dissolving cellulose from wood pulp using a continuous spinning and regeneration technology. MMCF comprise various categories; viscose, acetate, lyocell, modal, and cupro; viscose fibres are commercially dominant. But it has limited mechanical strength compared to second-generation fibres such as lyocell.
Cost
Cellulosic feedstock for MMCF manufacturing is widely accessible: through crops, agricultural leftovers and wastes, pre- and post-consumer textiles, wood wastes, etc. However, the technological feasibility and cost of manufacturing MMCF are current barriers to its wider adoption.
It is difficult to compare the environmental impacts of MMCF production to other types of fibres: there is a wide range of fibre production methods and technologies, as well as regional variations in environmental regulations. One study found that MMCF such as lyocell, modal and viscose produced in Austria had lower overall environmental impacts than cotton and synthetic fibres. However, viscose production in Asia had higher environmental impacts, comparable to polyester fibres. Assessing the production of MMCF from the sustainability triple bottom line approach, i.e., taking into account the environmental, economic, and social impacts, is crucial to increase the understanding of MMCF as an alternative material in the textile sector.
LCA studies required
Bio-based innovations require an improved sustainable profile that addresses all pillars of sustainability to compete with fossil options. MMCF are promising alternatives to synthetic fibres; but their sustainability is yet far from being understood.
Studies show that dissolving pulp price, solvent recovery makeup costs, capital expenditure and energy consumption are indicators of economic feasibility. Climate change, water use, abiotic resource use, eutrophication, acidification, and land use appear to be decisive for its environmental impact. But there is limited knowledge of its social sustainability. Future LCA studies should include the use and end-of-life stages in order to fully assess the life cycle of these textiles; especially considering the characteristics of the textile value chain.
From: Sustainability indicators for accelerating the production of man-made cellulosic fibers. In: Cleaner Environmental Systems, Volume 20, March 2026, 100391
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